Guest
Guest
May 06, 2013
7:21 PM
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I know someone that has a fy680 parts and he seems rather proud of his v120.It looked very delicate tho,so spare parts must be a killer.Overall,if you use a battery of a similar configuration and C rating as you have been then not much should change.Remember to gradually cycle up your lipos before using full intended amp draw - I favour a 1 metre span foam J3 model as it uses about 6~7 amps in cruise and around 15 for takeoff and climbing.It lets me gently discharge new cells a few times before going all out in one of my EDF jets,for example.You should be aiming to use about 80% capacity to be more conservative,but that,I believe,will give you somewhere around the fy680 quadcopter cell that you've mentioned when checked with no load.The general consensus is that if you just want to fly and can spend the money - go buy a Naza.If you're comfortable with troubleshooting and debugging and have the time to invest in learning the ecosystem of products that are available,you can go with any of the 8 bit controllers like Multiwii,or Crius,or APM.There is CA which comes thin,medium and thick.Sets fast,holds well but has nasty fumes so you want good ventilation.If you use it in an enclosed area it will make you feel like you have the flu.Then again,that combo doesn't include the DFC head.Is it a mistake to not go with the DFC? Sorry for all the questions,I just don't want to go down the "throwing good money after bad" road.One thing I don't like about the tarot spare parts as much is the Jesus bolt area.On the regular Tarot FBL head,it has 2 screws on the washout base that help to keep the head tight against the main shaft.I wonder why the DFC doesn't have this? No on the foam,but this is a Us robotics purchase and came with the enclosure so I'm thinking it has one already maybe? I will put a strip of electrical tape over the unused ports now.Thanks.Hovered at around 20 % but I need to verify.Thanks again.
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